|
|
 |
|
 |
| |
When putting up new fascias, soffits and bargeboards
or replacing them, one option is to fit UPVC. Available
in popular white, black and two shades of brown. UPVC fascia
and soffit material will save maintenance and looks great
- there will be no need for repainting every other year,
just wiping down with a damp cloth and upvc cleaner should
bring it back.
On some houses, the existing fascia will include
fixings for the telephone and/or mains electricity, these
services will need relocating onto any new UPVC fascia you
fit, this relocation MUST to undertaken by the appropriate
service supplier, so speak with them before you start.
Although not covered by this page, the roof
guttering will need to be removed before the fascia can
be replaced. See our installation of guttering guide.
|
When replacing a wooden fascia, soffit or bargeboard, it is
recommended that the old fascia, soffit or bargeboards are
all removed. Some 'professionals' will clad over existing
wood but this risks trapping moisture which could cause serious
rot in the structure.
|
Different types
of board
Note that different styles of board are available:
- Cover Board (aka 9mm capping
board)
- Fascia Board (aka 16mm maxi
board)
|
|
Cover Board (capping board) is,
as the name suggests, for covering/capping existing fascia,
whereas Fascia Board (maxi board) is intended for use without
a backing surface. While Cover Board tends to be thinner as
it is not acting alone as part of the structure, the main
difference is that Fascia Board has a recess along the inner
corner to locate the Soffit whereas the inner corner of Cover
Board is a plain right-angle.
|
| Fascias and Soffits
Current building regulations require ventilation
in the soffit for new buildings (equivalent to a one inch
gap along the whole perimeter), although not absolutely
necessary, when fitting replacement soffit, it is worth
considering
fitting pre-ventilated soffit to improve ventilation of
the roof void.
|
|
If you need to replace wooden
fascia, this probably indicates that the building is 20
years or more old and, where fitted, the roofing felt under
the tiles should be checked at the eaves. Felt often deteriorates
at this point and, if necessary, it should be replaced up
to the first batten (or, as a minimum, 12 inches (300 mm)).
When fitting new felt, ensure that it projects about 3 inches
(75 mm) over the fascia and is fitted under the existing
felt so that any water runoff runs onto the new felt rather
than under it. See Felt Replacement product.
- Allow 5 mm clearance at each end of the material to
allow for expansion.
- Fit a cover strip at each joint and corner.
Before starting to fix a length of fascia
or cover board, clear a whole side of the building of guttering
etc. and fix a horizontal builders string line along the
side of the building so that all sections of board can be
levelled to the same line.
|
The figure to the right shows an existing
wooden fascia clad with UPVC, if you decide to use this
method, it is best to remove the existing soffit. As most
existing soffits fit into a slot on the inside of the fascia,
it is possible to
release the soffit by cutting off the bottom of the fascia.
The new fascia should be pushed up under the ends of the
tiles and levelled before fixing, it's easier to get the
fascia straight if the lowest row of tiles can be pushed
up out of the way while the fascia is positioned and fixed.
Fix
the fascia using plastic headed Polytop stainless steel
ring nails (specifically supplied for the job), two vertically
at 600 mm horizontal centres. Position the nails vertically
so that they spread the load, one near the top of the surface
behind, one near the bottom. Keep the vertical position
of the nails constant between horizontal positions otherwise
the line of nails will look a mess.
|
|
The building side of the replacement
soffit can be fixed (see below):
- Into a upvc channel fixed to the wall of the house.
- Screwed to a wooden batten fixed above the soffit to
the wall of the house.
- To the top of the outer brickwork using either a batten
down from the rafters or a structural glue between the
soffit and the top of the wall.
|
As mentioned above, to do the job properly, the original
timber fascia, soffit and bargeboard should be removed
before fitting replacements.
Any rot in the ends of the rafter should be repaired
using good quality timber treated with preservative.
Make sure that any old nails in the ends of the rafters
are removed (or knocked in below the surface)
The eaves felt should be checked and renewed.
Fix the fascia to the ends of
the rafters using plastic headed Polytop stainless
steel ring nails, with the first set of tiles pushed
up, locating the ends of the rafters is easier.
|
|
Bargeboards
Cladding Bargeboards with UPVC is
similar to cladding fascias, the main difference
is that some cutting of sheet UPVC will be necessary
to shape around the eaves end.
|
Typical eaves end and bargeboard
on gable end
|
|
|
Eaves
end and bargeboard on part-hipped roof
|
Product Overview
Deeplas represents a fully integrated roofline
system for fascias and soffits in new build or replacement.
The product range allows extensive choice for an
ideal long-lasting solution. The associated finishing
profiles and moulded pieces ensure perfect finish
even in the most difficult corners.
Deeplas roofline systems are designed to be fixed
onto the extisting structure. Using the 16mm thick
fascia boards, means that gutters can be screwed
directly onto the fascia.
Flat of profiled boards may be used as soffit boards.
Ventilated boards are available for applications
requiring ventilated roof spaces.
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
